How Heel Height Mirrors the Economic State
By Aitor Hernandorena
FASHION
Edited by Hannah Mae Webster
5/24/20262 min read
Fashion’s true depth surpasses just trends and designs; throughout history, it has continually reflected the mood of society. From this concept, a fascinating theory was born: the height of the heel is directly related to the economic state. Many studies conducted between the 1920s and the present day have concluded with analysts confirming the remarkable theory.
In the aftermath of WWI, the USA’s economy experienced significant growth, encouraging greater spending on luxury items. It was during this optimistic period that flappers arose, fabulously shaping the fashions of the time. Sporting short skirts and smaller heels, these inimitable women flaunted their riches far beyond just sumptuous dressing. In the 1920s, leisure time became synonymous with wealth. Energetic dancing stole the attention of many, increasing the demand for looser, free-flowing garments that facilitated movement. Restrictive, oppressive designs became a distant memory. The correlation between leisure and wealth mirrored the rapidly changing world and its emerging values.
However, the so-called “perfect” life can’t be maintained forever. After 1929, with the stock market crashing and the great depression starting, the lifestyle of American women changed drastically. With a devastated economy, many could not sustain the activities they had grown so fondly accustomed to; thus a new wave of implied luxury took over.
A craving for control in an unstable economy affected dressing on a psychological level. Historically a symbol of power and stability, height – and heel height – can be interpreted as a message of fortitude. One of the game-changing designers that implemented height into beautiful designs was Salvatore Ferragamo, who introduced platforms and wedge heels in the late 30s. Polar opposites of the small heels present in the 20s, Ferragamo’s innovative creations were highly refreshing.
The average heel height of the 1930s was approximately 5-7 cm. Added height fuelled the illusion of indulgence and carelessness in a time riddled with financial difficulty. Viewed as a symbol of optimism, heel height quietly worked as a social tool utilised by women of all backgrounds and social statuses.
In line with economic activity, the height of the heel continued to subtly fluctuate between the 30s and the 70s. The latter experienced a drastic change mirrored by another detrimental economic crisis. The 1970s witnessed a huge rate of unemployment, skyrocketing prices due to inflation, and a devastating energy and petrol crisis.
With a poor economy unfolding across the globe, the fashion world was dealt yet another blow. Credited to newly improved manufacturing methods, radical and flamboyant fashion trends emerged to conceal signs of weakness. Platform heels were incredibly popular, with some reaching towering heights of 15cm. Following – quite literally – in the footsteps of bands like ABBA, platforms also became a men’s fashion fixture. The shoes were often worn like regular loafers, whilst the more daring men opted for sky-high platform boots. This served as a stark synonym of the depleting economy.
During COVID-19, the economy handled an unprecedented global event with enduring repercussions; as unemployment rates and inflation shot through the roof, optimism was in scarce supply.
In the years following the pandemic, platforms experienced a glorious runway revival. A notable example is the Medusa Aevitas, a 16cm platform heel that walked the FW 2021 Versace runway. Once again, the fashion world came to the rescue and supplied the armour needed to combat a myriad of troubles.
As small heel trends resurface in 2026, we can only hope that this is an accurate indicator of a strengthening economy, with fashion betting on a brighter future.
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