When In Rome

We’re all just people at the end of the day, and what we long and lust after is simple: art, romance, and really good pasta.

I spent my winter months in Rome this past year, and it took my heart—rightfully so. The people felt like family everywhere I went, and the food brought a comfort I didn’t realise I needed in the midst of a slower-paced lifestyle and the inevitable struggles of being without friends or family.

I had visited Rome once before and ticked off all the typical tourist destinations. I tossed a coin and made a wish at the Trevi Fountain, and got lured to a rooftop bar where the prices sent me straight back down in the lift. I joined a chaotic, joyful cooking class—one I still think about often—and I still use the pasta recipe we were taught. Turns out, it really is just flour, egg, and a bit of water.

But staying for a couple of months, and being brave enough to cycle around town on my Lime bike at 3 a.m., showed me a completely different side of this historic and architecturally rich city.

So, whether it’s your first or your seventh trip to Rome, I definitely have some recommendations.

Mornings
By day, I’ve found that the best cafés are the ones where locals stand at the bar sipping their espressos. My personal favourite? Sciascia 1917. Their cappuccino and pistachio croissant became a morning ritual after I made a couple of friends, and it’s the perfect way to start your day. And yes, you absolutely have to dip your croissant in your coffee. If you're there around midday, an espresso is ideal—maybe a macchiato, if you're pushing it with the milk! Sciascia has been around for over a century, and it shows. The staff are kindhearted, and even just sitting outside next to a little heater is a lovely experience. It’s genuine, not a tourist trap. No surprise ten-euro table charge that they’ll scream at you for not paying.

Midday Bites & Wanders
If you’ve already had your coffee but want something savoury, skip the heavy arancini and grab a supplì for just two euros. I became very fond of Mondo Arancina, just off Piazza del Popolo. It’s a perfect pit stop if you’re heading toward the Spanish Steps or Villa Borghese.

Speaking of, the Villa Borghese holds one of the most stunning museums I’ve ever visited: the Galleria Borghese. Tucked at the back of the gardens, it’s filled with breathtaking statues and paintings, and it takes around one to two hours to walk through. There’s discounted entry if you’re under 25 or an EU citizen—sorry, Brits, Brexit will haunt us forever.

To make it the perfect afternoon, enter the gardens via the steps at Piazza del Popolo. You’ll end up on a large open terrace with a panoramic view of the city. Wander beneath the trees and you’ll stumble upon a beautiful (and surprisingly small) lake. For five euros per person, you can hire a little rowboat and drift around for an hour between the swans and ducks, with the sun on your face.

Evenings & Aperitivo
I hope you’re wearing comfortable shoes, because after the gardens we’re heading across the city to L’Emporio Alla Pace. Trekking all that way just to sit with an Aperol might sound over-the-top—but if you want to befriend Roman bartenders, this is the place to do it. Tucked on a corner just a stone’s throw from Piazza Navona (also known as the square of three fountains), it has the kind of charm that makes you stay for hours.

If you time it right, you can walk over from Two Sizes, where you’ll try one of their famous tiramisu flavours, and arrive just in time to sip your aperitivo and watch the evening unfold—people-watching, chatting, and, if you’re lucky, catching some street music. In my opinion, that’s the perfect day.

Tourist Tips (But Make It Smart)
To tick off the big tourist spots, yes—you should buy tickets in advance! To avoid the mile-long queues at the Vatican Museums, book your entry at least one or two nights ahead. Same goes for the Colosseum.

If you’re not up for walking an ultra-marathon, get familiar with the trams and buses. You can buy a ticket at any tabacchifor €1.50—just make sure to validate it once you're on board!

My love for Rome has grown far beyond just aperitifs and pasta. There’s something so grounding about sitting in a quiet corner and watching people admire the architecture. It’s a feeling I try to chase every time I visit a new place—or return to an old favourite.

My time in Rome helped me grow in ways I didn’t expect. I gained confidence, independence, and a sense of calm. I arrived alone in a new city and I stuck it out—and even made friends along the way. These cafés and bars became my sanctuaries, and I can only dream of another Friday night at Bar Fischio, or a Sunday morning at the Porta Portesemarket.

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